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Care of Polish Rabbits
By Carol Cookson
INTRODUCTION
The purpose of this booklet is to
provide new and prospective rabbit owners with the basic information
needed to properly house and care for a pet rabbit. The information
in this booklet has been obtained from years of knowledge passed on
by many experienced breeders in addition to our own. Rasing rabbits
to be competitive in shows requires good husbandry skills and a
breeding program that produces healthy and high quality animals.
We recommend that prospective
rabbit owners read this booklet and acquire the housing and supplies
needed prior to bringing a new rabbit home. If you already have a
rabbit please read this care guide thoroughly before you begin
handling your new pet.
At Red Barn Rabbitry we raise show
rabbits as a hobby. Our goal is to improve our line, enjoy the
friendly competition of rabbit shows and make new friends along the
way. If you find that you have an interest in showing rabbits we
would be happy to answer your questions and point you in the right
direction. At Red Barn Rabbity we specialize in rasing show quality
Polish rabbits. There are 45 individual breeds of rabbits recognized
by the American Rabbit Breeders Association for you to choose from.
This care guide was written with Polish Rabbits in mind but the
information is applicable to other breeds as well.
GENERAL INFORMATION
Why Do People Keep Rabbits?
People keep rabbits for many
reasons. For some, its for the pure enjoyment of a warm and cuddly
pet. For others its an educational 4-H project. Some people raise
rabbits for the high quality and low fat meat that can be produced
for the table. And then there are those who enjoy the fun and
competition of the show table.
Can I make money raising rabbits?
It is important to point out that
it is nearly impossible to make money raising rabbits. The money
derived from the sale of our rabbits and supplies often does not
cover our feed expense. We look at raising show rabbits like any
other hobby that has expense associated with it. If your interest is
in owning a rabbit as a pet, there are costs associated with the
proper care, housing and feeding just as there would be with a dog or
cat. We would not encourage anyone to buy rabbits with thoughts of
making a profit. Even large modern commercial rabbitries have
difficulty turning a profit due to the cost of housing, feed and
labor needed to care for a herd.
Selling Rabbits To Pet and Feed Stores
Most pet and feed stores will
offer very small amounts for pet stock. In most cases the amount that
they offer is less than what it cost you to raise the rabbits. Most
pet stores want very young bunnies because of their cute factor which
helps increase sales. They also often house bunnies in a communal
caging and often with other kinds of animals. Communal caging creates
a high exposure to disease, worms, parasites, bite wounds and
unplanned breeding. Experienced rabbit breeders consider selling a
bunny under 8 weeks of age inhumane treatment since many young
bunnies sold in pet stores do not survive their first two months.
Finding Homes For Rabbit You Raise
It can be difficult to find good
homes for rabbits that you might raise. We often run a week-end ad
without receiving any calls or making any sales. When we do get calls
we make sure to qualify them as potential rabbit owners. It is very
important to us that our rabbits are well taken care of and in a safe
and healthy environment. Many unwanted rabbits are left at local
shelters or are turned loose in the wild by owners who have grown
tired of the rabbit experience. For these reasons this care guide
does not discuss breeding rabbits or raising litters.
What does pure bred and pedigree mean?
Our Polish rabbits are pure bred,
pedigreed animals. A pure bred rabbit has a record or pedigree of its
ancestors going back at least four generations. The pedigree of a
pure breed rabbit is a document containing information about that
individual rabbit. The pedigree details the rabbits name, birth date,
owner, breeder, weight, ear number, show winnings, and a complete
listing of at least four generations of its ancestors that must be
within that same specific breed. The outcome of the breeding of pure
bred rabbits is very predictable, unlike mix breeding where you dont
know what the offspring will look or act like. Pedigrees are not
provided for rabbits that we sell as pets but they may be available
for an additional fee. We have chosen the Polish breed of rabbits to
raise because or their small size and predictable mild temperaments.
We promote mild temperaments in our stock by culling aggressive
rabbits and do not use them in our breeding program. Due to their
small size Polish rabbits are not desirable for meat uses but do make
excellent pets, 4-H and show stock.
Show Quality Animals
A pedigree does not guarantee a
show quality animal. An animal with a pedigree may have a defect that
would cause it to be disqualified from competition. If you are
interested in a show quality animal be sure to get an evaluation from
a reputable breeders or rabbit judge before purchasing your animal.
Be aware that a show quality animal will usually increase the sales
price significantly depending upon the quality of the animal. A
pedigree is not required to show a rabbit in a 4-H or ARBA show but
is invaluable in developing a breeding program and required to
register a rabbit with ARBA.
Are rabbits good pets for small children?
Rabbits make great pets for school
age children and up. We discourage rabbits as pets for very young
children who often have not developed an understanding of the need to
be gentle and calm when handling animals. Rabbits are intelligent,
curious, playful and sensitive animals but when handled roughly they
will become unmanageable and may bite or scratch
when frightened. Handled with
patience and kindness rabbits make very affectionate and loving pets.
How old should a rabbit be before
he goes to a new home?
Rabbits purchased from pet store
are often removed from their mother at too early an age because small
cuddly animals sell well. Young rabbits are very fragile and often
become very ill or die when exposed to the excessive stress of new
food, and surroundings. For this reason we never sell a rabbit under
eight weeks of age. We wean them at six weeks and give them two full
weeks to fully adjust to their new diet and surroundings. During this
period they are watched very closely for signs of distress or illness.
Where do I buy rabbit food?
We recommend that you purchase
your feed and hay from us or your local feed store. A pet store will
usually carry rabbit food but will charge a much higher price and
shelf stock can be old resulting on a significant loss of its
nutritional value. Feed should be used within 3 months of its milling date.
How long will my rabbit live?
Domestic rabbits have been known
to live up to ten years with an average life span of about seven
years. The length of the life of your rabbit will depend upon the
environment and care that is given.
We hope that you enjoy your new
rabbit. If you follow these easy care instructions you should have a
healthy and happy pet that you will enjoy for many years. Feel free
to call or e-mail if you have any questions.
GETTING TO KNOW YOUR RABBIT
Will my rabbit be friendly?
Each rabbit has its own unique
personality which changes as it matures. A young rabbit can be
squirmy and flighty and have a short attention span making it
difficult to train and handle. At four to eight months of age,
rabbits will go through a teenage stage where they will begin to
sexually mature. During this growth phase your rabbit may become
aggressive and like human teenagers can become quite a handful. Once
a rabbit reaches full maturity, at six to eight months, its true and
final personality will emerge. Like people, some rabbits will be more
affectionate or playful than others and some will be grumpy or
aggressive. For this reason we feel that adult rabbits are best
suited for pets since their true personality will have developed and
there should be few surprises in the future. If your mature rabbit is
aggressive having it spayed or neutered may partially or completely
resolve the problem. The surgery is similar to that performed on cats
and dogs and if needed can enhance your enjoyment of the rabbit. Not
all vets are familiar with rabbit biology and you may need to search
for a veterinarian who will perform a spay or neuter.
Outside variables have a great
impact on the temperament of your rabbit. Exposure to loud noises,
aggressive dogs and cats and rough treatment can
have a negative result on your
rabbits temperment.
A rabbit who has little human
contact will not develop attachments to people and will fear
infrequent contact. However, when provided with a safe and secure
environment and treated with respect and kindness your rabbit can be
a wonderful and affectionate companion and pet.
Will a rabbit scratch and bite me?
A little respect goes along way.
All rabbits posses strong hind legs and sharp claws that are used for
defense along with a set of very sharp teeth that are capable of
causing a serious bite. Rabbits are not aggressive by nature but
driven to a fight or flight mode have the ability to seriously hurt
its handler.
Can I play with my rabbit right away?
Take time to get to know your
rabbit and for your rabbit to get to know you. Allow your rabbit to
adjust to its new surroundings for a couple of days before
introducing yourself. After he has had a chance to get settled
approach your rabbit and talk quietly and calmly to him using his
name. Move slowly when you reach into its cage and make a little
noise so that it knows that you are approaching to avoid startling
him. If he runs away from your hand, dont chase him. Let him settle
down and very slowly reach towards his head and gently stroke your
rabbit between his ears and eyes. Before long your rabbit will look
forward to your opening the cage door and meet you with its head
presented for a good scratch.
What is the best way to carry a rabbit?
Rabbits have a natural fear of
heights. For this reason rabbits do not like to be carried. Get to
know your rabbit at its own level. Sit on the floor and remove your
rabbit from its cage placing it on your lap. As you earn your rabbits
trust, slowly introduce height and movement.
It is important to fully support
the rabbit when carrying it. The rabbit will feel most secure if you
lay it in the crook of your arm supporting its hindquarters and rear
feet with your forearm. Place the palm of your hand under the chest
between its two front legs and hold it close and firmly against your
body. Place your other hand on top of the rabbit to prevent it from
jumping from your grasp. Rabbits have very fine bones that can easily
break if allowed to jump from your arms. Always provide support for
the rabbits feet and legs either in the crook of your arm or against
your chest. If your rabbits feet are not supported he will feel
insecure and frightened and may try to jump from your grasp.
Rabbits feel more secure on a
carpeted surface than on a hard, slick surface. You may want to
select a special throw rug or carpet square for your rabbit to sit on
if you have a tile, wood or vinyl floor. Given time and patience your
rabbit will look forward to your attention and trust you to handle
and carry it.
Why does my rabbit appear to be afraid?
We firmly believe that if the
handler is nervous or insecure around the rabbit, the rabbit will
sense that insecurity and react accordingly. So, be confident when
handling your rabbit and you will have a less nervous rabbit. Handle
your rabbit in a secure environment where you are comfortable. We
have a movable wire fence set-up in our yard in which we can let the
rabbit safely romp and interact with people. This creates a protected
environment for the rabbit and the handler without the fear of having
to chase an escapee, which in itself can be very stressful for both
parties. A light-weight three foot wire fence can be easily rolled up
and moved to allow mowing. Your rabbit will enjoy the freedom and
exercise in this safe play environment. Make sure that you dont leave
your rabbit in the play area or yard unattended. Other animals may
find your rabbit very attractive play thing or prey.
HOUSING AND SUPPLIES
Cage Mates
Rabbits are territorial by nature
and require their own space or cage. If you feel that your rabbit
needs companionship because you are unable to spend much time with
him be prepared for a time intensive and possibly futile attempt at
bonding a pair. The House Rabbit Society believes in bonding pairs of
rabbits and has published material available to help owners with the
process. Keep in mind; never place two unbonded rabbits together
unattended, two male rabbits may fight to the death. A male and
female combination is the most likely to work but will likely mate in
a matter of seconds unless one is neutered or spayed. Two females
will sometimes bond with patience and monitoring.
Caging
You must provide protective
shelter for your rabbit. A rabbit may be housed in your home, garage,
shed or hutch. Wherever you keep your rabbit he will need protection
from rain, wind, direct sun and other animals. We recommend an all
wire cage to be used in any situation with the floor wire being made
from a 1 X 1/2 wire mesh. This mesh size will provide plenty of
support for the rabbits feet and allow droppings to fall though
preventing dangerous build-up of manure and urine in the cage. The
all wire cage is inexpensive, easy to clean, provides protection to
the rabbit from predators can not be chewed by your rabbit. Rabbits
have a natural desire to chew and dig and will escape an enclosure
with a dirt floor or wooden gates. The rule of thumb used to
determine the minimum size of cage needed for a rabbit is 1 square
foot per pound A mature Polish rabbit will weigh between 2.5 and 3
pounds which will require a minimum of 3 square feet. A commonly
found in a 18 X 24 wire cage will meet the minimum needs of a single
Polish rabbit. Remember an 18 X 24 cage is the minimum for a single
rabbit. If you are going to house two rabbits in the same cage you
should plan on providing twice the space required for a single
rabbit. In all cases the larger the cage you can provide the better
for your pet.
Location And Waste Management
The cage floor should be waist
high to allow easy access. If you are using a wooden shelter, hutch,
or shed it will need to have a roof and be enclosed on three sides
with the open side facing away from he prevailing wind. To provide
additional protection from winter weather hang a removable plastic or
canvas flap along the open side of the structure being careful to
provide plenty of under cage ventilation to prevent build up of
ammonia fumes form urine. Respiratory problems can easily develop if
rabbits are kept in enclosures without sufficient ventilation. Keep
in mind, when selecting your rabbits housing that they will chew on
any exposed wood. If your cage does not have a tray you may want to
attach plastic sheeting under the cage that directs droppings to a
bucket for easy removal. The easiest method of waste management is to
let the dropping fall to the ground and periodically transfer them to
your garden or flower beds. Make sure that the cage is high enough
off the ground to allow for easy manure removal. A small hutch can
easily be moved from place to place in your garden or flower bed
letting dropping fall where they may. Rabbit droppings make an
excellent fertilizer. They may be place directly on plants without
fear of burning them. Rabbit manure does not require composting but
composting may be advisable to kill seeds from the grass hay fed to rabbits.
Food Containers
Your rabbit will need two feed
containers, one for water and one for pellets. Use containers that
your rabbit can not tip over or chew. We recommend metal containers
that attach to the side of the cage. Heavy ceramic crocks designed
for pet use also will work well. Water bottles are often sold in pet
and feed stores but have several disadvantages over crocks or open
containers. Water bottles often leak making it hard to tell if your
rabbit is truly taking in sufficient water. The ball in the tip can
get stuck preventing water from flowing. Water bottles are hard to
clean and refill. Fresh water must be offered daily and filling a
water bottle is much more time consuming than filling a water dish.
GENERAL CARE
Sanitation
A clean environment is critical to
the health and happiness of your rabbit. Use a stiff brush to remove
droppings that may accumulate on the cage floor. Clean the cage
occasionally with a water and chlorine bleach solution (1 cup bleach
to 1 gallon water). To clean your cage, remove the rabbit, detach the
cage from the shelter (if possible) and scrub the entire cage with
the bleach mixture. Thoroughly rinse the cage and dry before
replacing the rabbit. Letting the cage dry in the sun will further
help disinfect the cage.
Temperatures
Excessive temperatures can be
fatal to your rabbit and temperatures reaching above 80 degrees are
uncomfortable. If your rabbit is lying down and breathing hard he is
too warm and heat stroke is a threat. It may be necessary to move
your rabbit to a cooler location during extreme heat. Make sure that
your rabbit is NEVER left in the direct sunlight. A good location for
an outdoor hutch is under a tree which will provide insulation from
the sun. You can make a personal air conditioner for your rabbit by
filling a couple of plastic 2 liter pop bottles with water and
freezing them. Place one frozen bottle in the rabbits cage and
replace with the second bottle when the first melts rotating the
melted bottle back to the freezer.
Cold temperatures will not harm
rabbits if they are protected from the wind and rain. The main
concern in sub-freezing temperatures is to make sure that they have
water available. You may need to remove ice from their water dish a
couple of times each day during freezing temperatures. You may want
to provide the rabbits some extra shelter with a cardboard or wooden
box filled with hay that they can sit in to conserve warmth. Increase
the amount of pellet offered during very cold periods. Rabbits
require more food during cold weather to help generate the heat
needed to keep warm.
Toys
Rabbits love to chew. A block of
soft wood such as fir or pine will provide your rabbit with a chew
and play toy. Avoid plywood or other manufactured woods that contain glue.
Rabbits are playful may enjoy some
of the following as toys: toilet paper roll cores, paper cup,
newspaper ball, straw basket, canning jar ring, empty soft drink can,
wire ball with a bell, cardboard box to jump up on, pine cones or an
empty tuna can. Warning! Do not put plastic items in or within reach
of the cage.
Noise Level
Rabbits are timid by nature. Loud
and sudden noises or movement may create unhealthy stress and may
affect the rabbits temperament and character. When possible protect
your rabbit from loud and abrupt noises.
Yard Play
Your rabbit may be difficult to
catch if allowed to run in an open yard or house. If at all possible
avoid chasing your rabbit because it will cause unnecessary stress
and teach him to fear your approach. In an emergency a long handled
fishing net works as a rabbit catcher but may entangle and harm a
rabbit if it continues to struggle once caught. Creating a corral out
of wire fencing or other movable objects is the best approach. If
your rabbit is allowed to roam on a lawn make sure that it has not
been recently chemically treated. Munching on a treated lawn can make
your new friend ill. You may want to place your rabbit on a leash
using a small cat halter. The rabbit will not allow you to direct it
with the leash but you can allow the rabbit to wonder and explore
without the fear of losing it.
Clipping Toenails
Rabbits toenails need to be
trimmed about once every two months. As the nails grow they develop
into a hook. If a rabbit is startled he may jump and leave his nail
hooked around the bottom wire of the cage which will rip the nail off
at the toe. Trim nails also reduce the risk of the owner being badly
scratched. To trim your rabbits nails, sit in a chair and place a
bath towel across your lap. Lay the rabbit on his back, pining his
head firmly between your knees with his rear feet near your body. A
light colored rabbit will have clear nails through which you can
easily see the pink quick of the toe that grows up into the nail
about 1/4 inch. Using regular people toenail clippers or wire cutters
trim four nails on each back foot and five on each front being
careful not to cut too closely to the quick. On a dark colored rabbit
you will need to guess and leave about 1/2 to 3/4 of nail to avoid
cutting the quick. Using this method you will have both hands free to
trim the nails. The towel will prevent the rabbit from sliding
between your legs and protect your legs from scratches. After you
have trimmed nails a few times the rabbit will become accustomed to
the procedure and be more cooperative.
FEEDING YOUR RABBIT
What To Feed
Rabbits have a very sensitive
digestive system. Fresh commercial rabbit pellets are the most
convenient and popular source of proper nutrition for your rabbit.
When choosing pellets for your rabbit, check the contents label and
make sure that you have 16% protein. Make sure that the pellets are
no older than three months from the milled date. Buy no more feed
than can be consumed by your rabbit within two months. Fresh feed is
hard, green and has a nice fresh alfalfa aroma. Old feed will lose
nutrients, is soft and crumbly may turn brown, loose a fresh aroma
and may contain excessive amount of fines. Fines is the feed dust
that is created from the pellets rubbing against each other in the
bag. Bags of feed that are roughly handled or old will have more
fines in them. Rabbits will not eat fines and it should be removed
from the feed dish daily. If left in the dish fines can be inhaled by
your rabbit while eating which can cause respiratory problems. Look
for feed that has a minimum amount of fines in the bag to avoid
excessive waste of feed. Make sure that your rabbits feed is stored
in a dry environment to preserve the life of the nutrients.
Changing Feed
Once you have chosen a brand,
stick with it. If you should have to change brands do so gradually by
mixing a small amount of new feed in with the old and steadily
increasing the percentage of new feed each day until the change is
made. A complete change should take five to six days. During this
transition your rabbit my reduce his daily intake due to the change
in the ingredients.
How Much To Feed
Allow a young rabbit to eat as
much feed as he wants up to about four months of age. After that
regulate the amount of food available. A Polish rabbit will consume
from ½ cup to ¾ cup of feed per day. A laundry detergent
scoop or tuna can make an excellent measure. The amount of feed your
rabbit will need will vary with the addition of hay and treats and
the individual requirements of the rabbit based on size and activity
level. To determine the correct amount of feed to offer daily you
will need to observe the amount of food eaten each day. If feed is
left over from the previous day reduce the amount given. If the food
is completely gone, add a small amount to the next days serving until
you can determine the exact amount of food your rabbit requires each
day. Caution, over feeding can result in a fat an unhealthy rabbit.
By feeding your rabbit a measured amount daily you will be able to
easily observe if your rabbit has stopped or reduced his food intake
which could be an indicator that something may be wrong with him. If
your rabbit stops eating it is important to take corrective action
immediately. If your rabbit stops or significantly reduces his daily
ration, try one or more of the following: check to make sure that
there is plenty of fresh water available, remove old food from the
feed dish and replace with fresh, tempt your rabbit with treat foods
to get them to start eating again, provide hay.
Water
The most important element to a
rabbits diet is clean fresh water. Make sure that there is water
available at all times. A rabbit will not eat if water is not
available. Water crocks, tins or bottles must be changed daily. Water
containers should be cleaned at least weekly to avoid contamination.
Salt
Commercial pellets contain needed
salt. It is not necessary, when feeding pellets, to provide a salt
spool. Salt spools will reduce the life of your wire cage by
promoting rust.
Additions to Pellets
Fresh vegetables and fruits will
be very much enjoyed by your rabbit in small amounts as treats and
will help supplement commercial pellet with nutrients. Offering too
many treats may result in loose stool or diarrhea. Treats are just
that and should not consist of more than 25% of your rabbits total
daily intake. It is critical that commercial pellet to be the base
food source to meet your rabbits daily nutritional needs. Suggested
treats include: apple, banana, carrot, celery, black berry leaves,
watermelon rind, alfalfa hay, dandelion leaves, dried wheat bread,
raw in the shell sunflower seeds, rolled or crimped oats, Cheerios or
other unsweetened cereal. Avoid lettus, cabbage, broccoli and
cauliflower. Be careful not to feed your rabbit treats that may have
been treated with chemicals such as weed killers or pesticides.
Dandelion leaves act as a natural medicine for rabbits. Give up to
four leaves per day if your rabbit is not acting normal. Do not
provide treats that contain refined sugars, honey or molasses.
The Importance of Fiber
Rabbits groom themselves like a
cat and ingest a considerable amount of fur in the process. I order
to move the fur through the rabbits system, fiber is required. The
best source of fiber is grass hay. Timothy grass is your best choice
when available. Higher protein hay such as alfalfa will unbalance the
nutrition supplied by pelleted feed and should only be given in small
amounts as a treat food. A hand-full of hay at least twice a week
will help move fur through the digestive tract and prevent intestinal
blockages which are life threatening. An indication of a need for
more fiber is the presence of droppings strung together with fur.
Grass hay has little nutritional value and should not be used in
place of pellets. Rabbit do enjoy hay and you can not hurt them by
giving it daily.
COMMON HEALTH PROBLEMS
Rabbits are generally low
maintenance when it come to health issues Rabbits do not require
vaccines or booster shots. Following are discussions on the more
common maladies that may occur with your rabbit.
Diarrhea
The most common problem that
rabbit owners come across is loose stool and diarrhea. Rabbits have
very sensitive digestive systems and care should be given in the food
offered in order to prevent serious health conditions. Left
unchecked, diarrhea can cause death within 24 hours. Diarrhea can be
caused by a number of conditions: a change in diet, stress, too much
treat foods, contaminated food or water, old or moldy hay of food.
Hay needs to be kept dry and inspected for excess weeds and mold. Do
not feed moldy hay to your rabbits. Molded food or hay can be deadly
if feed to your rabbit. If loose stool or diarrhea occur remove the
pellet and provide dry rolled oats ( regular household oatmeal) and
hay. When the problem is corrected replace the pellet. A dirty cage
will allow the rabbit to ingest contaminate which may cause illness.
Keeping the cage and food dishes clean is the best preventative
medicine that you can offer.
Night Feces
A common concern with new rabbit
owners is discovering a clump of feces that looks like a big wet
black berry or salmon eggs. This is a normal daily occurrence
commonly called night feces. Night feces is an important part of a
rabbits natural digestive system which usually occurs at night. Night
feces contains important nutrients that all rabbits need and is
normally eaten at night.
Red Urine
New rabbit owners get concerned
when they see red or bloody looking urine in a litter pan. The red
color is not blood and should not be a concern. The red color is
natural. Some rabbits will produce red urine frequently while others
never will.
What To Do If Your Rabbit Stops Eating
Day 1: Check that your rabbit has
access to plenty of fresh water. Remove the uneaten pellet and
replace it with fresh.
Day 2: Provide hay, rolled oats
and treat foods to induce eating. Check your rabbit's teeth for
malocclusion and mouth sores. If sores are found seek assistance from
your veterinarian.
Day 3: Consult your veterinarian.
Malocclusion
Rabbits sometimes develop
malocclusion (buck teeth) that will prevent them from eating.
Malocclusion is identified by examining your rabbits front teeth.
Normally the two top front teeth overlap the bottom two front teeth.
If the bottom teeth overlap the top teeth the rabbit has a
Malocclusion condition. Malocclusion is most often a genetic problem
and can be identified at an early age (8 to 12 weeks) but may occur
if your rabbit chews and pulls on its cage wire. If your rabbit does
have malocclusion the bottom teeth will not wear down as they were
designed to do and will grow excessively long up into the upper lip
area. Malocclusion can be treated by clipping the extra long teeth
with wire cutters. Malocclusion is a life long problem and not a
correctable. If you are unable to bring yourself to clip your rabbits
teeth a vet will do it for you. Make sure when you select a rabbit
that you examine its teeth for malocclusion.
Sore Hocks
Sore hocks are sores or swollen
bare spots that develop on the pads of the rabbits feet. This is a
serious condition and is usually caused by a dirty or rough cage
floor. It is very rare that a small breed rabbit such as a Polish
should develop sore hocks. It is a condition seem much more
frequently with larger breed rabbits. Sore hocks can easily become
infected. Keep the wounds clean with disinfectant and provide the
rabbit a resting board so that he will not have to rest directly on
the cage wire. The resting board needs to be replaced or thoroughly
cleaned and disinfected daily and removed when the feet have healed.
Sneezing,, Runny Eyes and/or Nose
Colds, sneezing, runny eyes or
nose is usually a sign of a respiratory problem most commonly caused
by a build up of fumes in the cage or plain old stress. First,
provide a quiet well ventilated and clean living space.
If the discharge from the nose or
eyes is clear it is probably just a cold or allergy and will clear up
on its own in just a couple of days.
If the discharge is white or
yellow you may have a serious problem commonly known as Snuffles.
Snuffles is the most dreaded illness known to rabbit breeders.
Snuffles is treatable but not curable and is highly contagious to
other rabbits. At the first sign of a white or yellow discharge from
the nose or eyes the rabbit must be isolated form other rabbit to
prevent the spread of the problem. Clean the discharge from runny
eyes with a cotton swab and rinse with a eye-dropper of saline
solution. Monitor the rabbit closely for improvement. If the
condition clears up for 14 consecutive days, the rabbit was most
likely suffering from stress or a cold. If however the discharge and
or sneezing continues or your rabbit develops a tilted head or is
unbalanced you should seek assistance from a veterinarian.
Fleas
Fleas can be treated with a cat
flea products following the directions on the container. Be sure not
to use dog flea products. Rabbits groom themselves like cats and will
ingest flea powder on the coat. Dog flea products can be deadly to rabbits.
Ear And Fur Mites
Both ear and fur mites are
external parasites and are acquired from other animals or exposure to
areas where other infected animals have been.
Ear mites are not visible by the
naked eye. An indication of an ear mite infestation is the appearance
of a brown and sometimes crusty film on the skin inside the rabbit
ears. Left untreated rabbits will scratch their ears with their hind
feet and introduce bacteria into the ear which can create an
infection. Ear mites can be easily treated by thoroughly coating the
infected area with baby oil which will suffocate the mites. Use a
cotton swab to apply the oil. Do not pour oil directly into the ear
canal. A couple of treatments should take care of a problem. If home
treatment is unsuccessful or has developed into an infection, request
assistance from your veterinarian.
Fur mites live in the fur and
cause very little trouble. Occasionally a skin condition resulting in
the loss of fur in one or more places, most commonly on the back of
the neck. A cat flea power is very effective against fur mites. If
after treatment the condition does not improve, seek assistance from
your veterinarian.
Wool-Block
Wool-block is caused by the rabbit
ingesting fur during the grooming process. Unlike like a cat who gets
fur balls rabbits can not regurgitate the blockage. A sign that a
potential wool-block is growing is droppings found strung together
with fur or very small droppings produced. At the fist sign of strung
droppings or very small droppings, increase the amount of hay
provided until normal droppings return. In more severe cases you may
want to purchase papaya tablets from a health food store. Papaya can
help dissolve the fur and allow the blockage to pass. Once wool-block
is allowed to completely block the intestines it is difficult to
correct without surgery and your rabbit may suffer a slow and painful death.
HOUSE TRAINING
Many people choose rabbits as
house pets. Rabbits can be trained to use a litter box or return to
their cage for toilet needs. They very much enjoy bounding around the
house and can be a welcome addition to the home. A house cage has a
tray that is easily removed for cleaning. A tray lined with news
paper or wood shaving will need to be changed at least twice a week
to avoid excessive odor. Remember your rabbit has to live above its
toilet so be considerate of him and keep the cage clean and odor
free. Rabbits are nocturnal and often make too much noise in the
night to be housed in a bedroom.
Most rabbits can be house trained
with a little time and patience. Start out by placing your rabbit in
its cage for at least 48 hours. Do not disturb or handle it during
this introductory period. Once a rabbit has scented out a spot to use
as his toilet he will return to that spot. Make sure that you dont
place food containers near the chosen potty spot. The first week
allow your rabbit out of his cage for short 10 - 15 minute periods.
If treated in a gentle manner your rabbit will soon come to enjoy his
trips outside his cage. He will explore and nibble and test. Use
common sense when small children play with the rabbit.
Gradually extend the amount of
time that you allow the rabbit out of his cage but watch carefully
and return him to his cage if he shows signs of lifting his tail to
urinate. If you catch him, spray him with a water bottle and use a
strong verbal NO command return him to his cage immediately. By the
end of the third week you should be able to leave the door of his
cage open when you are home and he will return to his cage for toilet needs.
If you catch your rabbit using
your favorite rug for a litter box, spray apple bitters on the spot
and he will not return. Make sure that you thoroughly clean any area
used as a toilet outside of the litter box or cage in order to
discourage repeat visits and deposits. NEVER hit your rabbit, this
will only make him mean and aggressive. Your rabbit may leave
occasional droppings here and there but they are firm and dry and
easily whisked up with a dust pan and broom. Do not leave dropping on
the floor, this will only encourage the rabbit to keep using the same
area for a toilet.
Beware of your rabbits need to
chew. They often pick carpet, furniture and electrical cords as their
choice for toys. You can discourage your rabbit from chewing by
rubbing Tabasco sauce on the item your rabbit tries to chew. When you
catch your rabbit chewing,, use a spray bottle of water and soak him
along with using a strong NO verbal command. It is recommended to
bunny proof the area that you will allow your rabbit to roam by
putting electrical cords out of the bunnys reach and protecting wood
furniture legs from sharp teeth.
Never leave a rabbit unattended.
When you leave home for the day or even a few minutes, put your
rabbit back in his cage.
WHERE TO FIND MORE INFORMATION
Books
Try your public library, although
the books may be dated, you may find them educational. Check out your
local feed stores and pet stores, they often carry books on animal
rabbit care. County Extension offices have information available
often free of charge.
4-H
If you are a youth, join a local
4-H rabbit group. Rabbit 4-H is a fun and rewarding way to learn
about your new pet.
American Rabbit Breeders Association
The American Rabbit Breeders
Association is a non-profit national organization made up of
individuals interested in the pet, commercial and competitive aspects
of rabbits. The ARBA functions as the governing body that manages
show rules, and official registration of rabbits much like the
American Kennel Club does for dogs. For a nominal membership fee you
will receive a wealth of information and a quarterly magazine. The
web site for ARBA is: www.arba.net
Local Rabbit Clubs
Local rabbit clubs are formed by
individuals for the purpose of promoting rabbit judging competitions.
If you are interested in the competitive aspect of raising rabbits
for show, The Oregon League of Rabbit and Cavy Breeders is a good
source for finding information about local rabbit shows, clubs and
breeders in your area. The web site for the OLRCB is http://home.att.net/~olrcba
. Attend a local rabbit show, you will find many breeders of
different breeds that are happy to answer questions and show youre
their animals.
Internet
There are a number of Internet web
pages that have rabbit information. My favorite starting location is:
www.showbunny.com from there you will find links to many other rabbit
related sites.
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